BAKERSFIELD, Calif. (KGET) — When I told him I was leaving for a week-long vacation in Mexico City, defense attorney David A. Torres started talking about suadero tacos with a fervor he usually saves for pleadings.
He didn’t misdirect me. I have eaten suadero tacos at several places and thoroughly enjoyed them each time.
The suadero – the meat taken between the belly and the leg – as served in Mexico City is cooked in total submission, practically melting in your mouth. I had suadero tacos in California, but these were almost unrecognizable from what I’ve been served before.
Following in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain, I ate suadero tacos at Taqueria Los Cocuyos, one of the most popular spots in town. They were exceptional, soft and powerfully flavored. I enjoyed the taquero who told me to be careful with the green salsa, which he called “muy caliente”.
I also had suadero tacos at Taqueria Arandas, which specializes in tacos al pastor, but the suadero was also very good.
I actually didn’t have a bad suadero tacos while I was in town and ate them almost every night. Some nights I’d be back at my hotel, pretty full, and then I’d think, “You know, I could handle three more tacos.” At the door, I went to have another meal.
Tacos de Canasta Los Especiales, located just around the corner from my hotel in the Centro Historico, had lines no matter what time of day.
They offer a special of five tacos and a bottle of soda for 50 pesos, or about US$2.50. How to say no to that?
The potato tacos were good with no frills, but really came to life when drenched in a few spoonfuls of green salsa wearing chunks of guacamole. Also offered are tacos stuffed with chicharron or refried beans.
My time in Mexico City was brief, but I feel like I’ll be thinking about his tacos for quite a while.
